Feasting in San Bartolome

Sunday, March 4
We leave after breakfast for La Mina Prieta and Valle de Allende (formerly San Bartolome), an important agricultural settlement in late 16th century New Spain. This is fertile countryside, watered by the Rio Florida, the Rio Parral and other rivers. We pass sprawling pecan orchards. Hal explains that Valle de Allende provided sustenance for mine workers -- corn, chile, meat from goats and cows. Honey was harvested from ants! In Coronado,we enter another of the dozens of churches along the Royal Road. This one is filled with paintings of the life of Christ. The Franciscans held much power during early mining days. They converted many of the Indians who worked the mines, teaching them 100 words each.
In Villa de Allende, a town that was definitely one of Onate’s temporary locations, we meet Rita Soto, a woman Hal met during an American/Mexican cultural exchange. She graciously welcomes us into her rambling hacienda. George has located his relatives, who’ve come to Rita’s house for the reunion. We have free time to wander about the town before lunch. Temporarily separated from the rest of the group, Inez, Polly and I wander up and down Mina Street. Finally we find a corridor that opens out into a large park. To the left is what appears to be a community center. Two big rooms open out to a patio. A party, our welcome fiesta, is underway, and we are the guests of honor.
Mariachis play enthusiastically. Women of the town have prepared a sumptuous buffet, spread out on long tables next to the musicians. We partake of vegetables, burritos and casseroles. The most surprising and tasty offering is a combination of baked cactus and cheese. The music is so loud that talk is impossible. The meal finished, some of our group take to the dance floor. After the party, Hal leads us down a dirt road to a river where the conquistadores actually passed through. It’s amazing to think that we’re standing on ground traveled centuries earlier by Onate and his men!
We return to Parral in late afternoon with time enough to walk around the city. Inez and I go to Morelos Restaurant, a few blocks from our hotel. My chile rellanos are delicious. We sit with Jim and Nancy Huff, who tell us about their multiple RV trips to Copper Canyon. On the walk back to Hotel Adriana, we stop at a bookstore and an ice cream shop.